The Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Right Sewing Needle for Every Fabric

Using the correct sewing needle can transform your sewing experience and help your fabric spend less time in the home-made hell of never finishing your sewing projects and instead guarantee you stitch like an effing professional. So when sewing linen fabric, working with all-natural materials or experimenting with different textiles, the right needle is essential to avoiding skipped stitches, destruction of the fabric itself or fraying or breaking the thread.

The tools are just as important as the quality fabric that you have selected with care! Here, we guide you through the types of sewing needles and what to consider to get the best possible result while sewing any type of fabric.

Anatomy of a Sewing Needle

Before getting into fabric-specific recommendations, though, it’s good to know the basic parts of a sewing needle:

• Shank – The upper part that fits into the sewing machine (for machine needles).
• Shaft – The main body of the needle, which determines its strength.
• Eye – The hole through which the thread passes.
• Point – The tip of the needle, which influences how it pierces the fabric.
• Groove – A small indentation that guides the thread through the fabric.

All of these elements contribute to the way in which the needle behaves with different fabrics.

What The Different Sewing Needle Sizes Mean

Needles come in different sizes, generally given in two numbers, e.g. 80/12. The first number (they use a European system) is between 60 and 110, and the second (American system) is between 8 and 18.

• Lower numbers mean thinner needles — great for lightweight fabric.
• Larger numbers indicate thicker, stronger needles - for heavy fabrics.

For example:

• 60/8 to 70/10 – Sheer fabrics like silk and chiffon.
• 80/12 to 90/14 – Mid-weight fabrics like cotton and linen.
• 100/16 to 110/18 – Heavy-weight fabrics — denim and upholstery fabric.

Choose the appropriate size to avoid damaging your fabric as well as to help guide your sewing.

Types of Sewing Needles and What They Are Used For

There are different types of needles for different fabrics.  Below is a guide to matching your fabric with the correct needle.

1. Universal Needles – Good for Most Projects

• Best for: Mid-weight cotton, linen cloth, polyester blends and synthetics.
• Size range: 70/10 to 90/14.
• Why use them? These needles have a little bit of a rounded tip, and therefore, this needle is convenient for everyday sewing projects.

2. Ballpoint Needles – For Knits and Stretch Fabrics

• Best for: Jersey, interlock, rib knit, spandex, and other stretch fabrics.
• Size range: 70/10 to 100/16.
• Why use them? The rounded tip slides between fibres rather than piercing them, preventing snags and runs.

2.5. Stretch Needles - 4-Way Stretch Fabrics

• Best for: Fabrics with high elastane/spandex content such as bathing suit fabric - any fabric that stretches in both directions. 
• Size range: 70/10 to 90/14.

• Why use them? They have a slightly sharper ballpoint and a deeper scarf (groove) to prevent skipped stitches on fabrics like Lycra or Spandex.

3. Sharp/Microtex Needles – For Delicate and Tight Weaves

• Best for: Fine woven fabrics such as silk, taffeta, organza, and batik.
• Size range: 60/8 to 80/12.
• Why use them? Their sharper, finer point creates precise, clean stitches without damaging delicate fabrics.

4. Jeans/Denim Needles – For Heavyweight Fabrics

• Best for: Denim, canvas, duck cloth, and upholstery fabric.
• Size range: 90/14 to 110/18.
• Why use them? A strong shaft and sharp point prevent needle breakage when sewing thick layers.

5. Leather Needles – Genuine Leather and Vinyl

• Best for: Leather, synthetic leather, suede, and vinyl.
• Size range: 80/12 to 100/16.
• Why use them? The wedge-shaped tip punctures clean holes without ripping. Do not use these on woven fabrics.

6. Topstitch Needles – For Decorative Stitching

• Best for: Topstitching thread for heavy-sewing on denim, canvas or decorative sewing
• Size range: 80/12 to 100/16.
• Why use them? A larger eye accommodates thicker thread, reducing friction and breakage.

7. Twin/Double Needles – For Parallel Stitching

• Best for: Decorative hems, pin-tucks, and topstitching for knit and woven fabrics.
• Size range: Varies (1.6mm to 6mm spacing).
• Why use them? Creates a professional-looking double row of stitches. Ideal for hemming knit fabrics.

8. Embroidery Needles – For Machine Embroidery

• Best for: Embroidery on cotton, linen fabric and lightweight woven fabrics.
• Size range: 75/11 to 90/14.
• Why use them? A larger eye and specially designed groove reduce friction on delicate embroidery threads.

9. Quilting Needles – For Layered Fabrics

• Suitable for: Quilting cotton, linen fabric, and batting.
• Size range: 75/11 to 90/14.
• Why use them? Their tapered point glides smoothly through multiple layers without damaging fabric.

10. Metallic Needles – For Metallic and Specialty Threads

• Best for: Metallic threads on cotton, linen, and synthetic fabrics.
• Size range: 80/12 to 90/14.
• Why use them? A large eye reduces thread breakage, ensuring smooth stitching with speciality threads.

How to Choose the Right Needle for Specific Fabrics

Signs You’re Using the Wrong Needle

Even with the best fabric and thread, an incorrect needle can lead to:

✔ Skipped stitches
✔ Thread fraying or breaking
✔ Fabric puckering
✔ Needle breakage

If you notice any of these issues, try changing your needle to one better suited for your fabric.

Conclusion: Get the Right Tools for Your Next Project

The right sewing needle will make a massive difference in the quality of your finished garment. If you need linen fabric, sewing skills, or a sewing workshop in Hamilton, Burlington, or Oakville, look no further than Main Fabric.

Shop for quality all-natural fabrics, sewing patterns, and sewing workshops in Ontario. Not sure which needle to use? Feel free to visit us in-store or join one of our classes to learn more!

With this guide, you know how to choose the right needle like a pro so that every stitch counts. Happy sewing!